Hello my friend,
I believe you have either a broken "rack and rod" or an electrical ignition switch that has melted.
The rack and rod consists of a gear that moves a rod inside the steering column. The rod moves an electrical switch that tells the starter to crank or stop cranking. Not sure about your truck, but Ford cars in 87 had many problems with melted ignition switches that would stop moving in either the cranking position, accessory or somewhere in between.
Good luck : )
I replaced the starter but it makes a grinding nose how do i fix it
Yes, it has a cranking system called a starter.
it could be your starter selinoide which should be in the engine compartment near the battery and the big waire from your battery goes to it!
An automotive starter is a high torque motor that generally works until it just quits. Heat generated from hard (long) starts shortens the life. Mis starts, grinding teeth, slow cranking and spinning free are indicators
The armature bushings inside the starter motor are probably shot. Time to replace the starter.
That is a broken/worn teeth on the flywheel or on the starter pininon gear. That is why you hear a grinding noise. It's the starter turning without being able to engage.From what you describe I would suspect that the starter is not fully engaging. I'm assuming that the grinding noise you hear when you try to engage the starter is INSTEAD of the engine cranking. If I assumed wrong, ignore the following:Pull the starter, check the flywheel for excessively worn areas. Most of the time the flywheel is ok, it's just the starter. If you feel comfortable working on the starter, just get a new bendix and clean up the rest of it. Any time you disassemble a starter you should replace the bushings and brushes. Never remove the starter with the battery still connected. Remove the negative terminal from the battery before you attempt to remove the starter.
Defective starter drive? Broken tooth on flywheel/converter? My guess would be either the flywheel, or if the starter has been changed recently, maybe there was a starter shim that was not put back in.
most likely a failing starter
more than likely u fried the starter solenoid
In general starters do not have torque specifications. You will want to tighten the starter as tight as you can without breaking the starter bolts.
That all depends on if you abuse the starter by cranking too long. I have 170,000 on original starter.
Voltage flow into a starter motor, never out of it. Use the voltmeter to measure the voltage at the starter motor before starting to crank and then whilst it is cranking. (Before cranking, the voltage appears across the starter motor relay only.)