Usually a CFL has two ratings. The first is wattage and the second is in mA I suspect the wattage is only the wattage of the bulb itself and the second is the actual current draw of both the light bulb and the ballast. They are not compatible. If you figure the mA and multiply times the voltage you will obtain close to the actual wattage of the combination of the bulb and the ballast. I have a 100 watt Feit BPESL25T which indicates it draws 25 Watts when it actually draws 47.5 Watts. Very close to the mA (400 x 120 VAC =48 Watts) indicated on the base. Almost all CFLs I've tested with my very accurate Fluke RMS meter draw twice the wattage they indicate. Not such a good deal.
Wattage= current*voltage*power factor. Wattage=VI Cos(@)
Open the door and look for a label that lists all of the important details on the door frame It should list input and output wattage - the input wattage is how much power it draws, and the output wattage is the actual cooking power. Some brands may have this label on the back, but it's usually inside the door.
In a PCB its very hard to find out. the best way is to look at a component catalogue and check there.
It doesn't appear that you can get an actual zit on your gums, if it looks like a zit, get it checked out.
To find the wattage needed , you multiply amps by volts. In the case of a portable generator you need to find the running wattage. most generators display peak wattage in large numbers on the top , or frame . this is not suitable for welders, which may exceed this for longer than the gen. is rated . You need to look at the actual tag that shows running watts and specific voltages.
Not in the actual games, last time I checked. A LOT in Fanfiction and the like.
Also CFL and LED light bulbs use much less actual wattage than their equivalent wattage. It is best to look at the datasheet for each individual type of light bulb. They can vary from milliwatts to kilowatts, depending on the purpose the light bulb was intended for.
There is no legal requirement for the wattage for most bulbs, only that they are sufficiently visible and do not blind other users. Most headlights are 35W-55w for road use, with most other external bulbs for indicators, brakes and tail being around 5 watts. Fog lights can be a higher power output. The actual light produced by a car bulb of a given wattage varies depending on the technology (traditional filament, LED or HID), the reflector and the lens colour.
I would compare lamps of the same wattage to see which one puts out more lumens, which is the measurement of actual light output.
Tuition at trucking schools varies significantly. Focus on the value for your money: actual driving hours are the key.
It is possible to power any electrical device i.e. assuming that the electrical device is in disabled or off condition only if the UPS has the option of cold start. The actual run time will depend on the load ( wattage ), on a average basis a 40 w CFL can be powered for about 45 minutes using a 500 VA 300 W UPS. Maximum Load that can be handled will depend on the ratings of the UPS. A UPS with the ratings as mentioned earlier will not handle loads greater than 300 W. Regards.
The cost of a candelabra bulb would depend on the wattage and style of the actual bulb. Candelabra bulbs are available in various different styles including bayonet cap and screw cap, opal and clear.