Disregard all the following comments about the alternator being At Fault. They are all wrong. The primary reason your starter clicks but won't crank is that not enough current (amps) are going from the battery (a storage device) to the starter (merely an electric motor with a special gear on the end).
So . . . how do you get more amps from the battery to the starter motor?
1. Remove battery cables and wirebrush the connections. Then reattach the cables, making sure that the connections are clean and tight. This will solve most (not all) "clicking" problems.
2. If course of action #1 doesn't solve your problem, disconnect the cables again and this time clean the connection at the starter motor solenoid. Note: do not work on the solenoid connection while the main battery cables are still attached.
3. If clean connections are not enough to solve your problem, remove the battery and take it to Advance Auto or some other auto store that tests batteries. They will put the battery on a charger for 6 hours and then test it with a load meter. The meter will identify a bad battery instantly.
4. If courses of action 1, 2, and 3 have not solved your problem, the culprit may be the alternator. The only way to test it is to get the engine running and then connect a voltmeter to the positive (red) and negative (black) terminals on the battery. The reading should be about 13+ volts. Twelve volts is insufficient, and 15 volts is too high. If the alternator is not putting out 13+ volts, the battery will slowly lose its charge, and you will be back to the "clicking" problem.
Answeryour problem is either the car battery, or your alternator. Answerthe alternator is what charges your battery. try jumping it off again and letting if run for 15 or 20 minutes, then shut the car off. if problem persists, its definetly the alternator AnswerLets start with a good old battery terminal clean up. Are you terminals clean? I mean clean and tight! The problem could well be your battery, if the car is not getting enough Amps it will just click at the selenoid. (When you get a boost you're adding more amps to your car battery.) But if you have a battery charger, or can borrow one for an hour , then charge the battery for an hour and see if you car starts OK. If it does, then get a Volt Meter and hook it up to your battery with the car running.(red to Positive, black to negative.) With the car running you should get about 14.5 Volts at the battery. This would indicate that the alternator is good and there is a very good chance that your battery is toast, if you get only a 12 Volt reading, then your alternator is shot and needs to be replaced. Some battery shops will do a load test on your battery to tell you if it is good or not, phone around, some are very helpful. Some batteries still have lids on them that can be popped off and the cells filled to the bottom of the air slots with DISTILLED water. Only use DISTILLED water. Then charge your battery well, put it on the charger or go out for a good long drive to change that distilled water into acid. Be careful, battery acid is very corrosive and will ruin a good pair of blue-jeans in one washing. It'll also eat nice little holes in your skin anywhere it touches...Aw heck...just go buy a new battery if you need one based on the tests above. Good luck, let us know what you find. Jim.I heard they were developed for the Kenyan Olympic team. I ran in them in Kenya and they seemed to do the job.
Ashanet.com has a lot of information on on the running calendar. There was many other sites available to like irs.gov which seemed to have more information but not as much as ashanet.com
Move on and consider yourself lucky.
The internal combustion engine seemed to be a pretty signifiant forerunner to modern cars.
i think i had the same problem with my 84 caprice. is the battery dead when u go to start it? i unplugged the clock in the dash and it seemed to fix it.
you ran it too hot and burnt out some gaskets and possibly warped the heads
Bad speed sensor.
"They always seemed to think that a horse was something like a steam-engine, only smaller."(127)
Most common it seemed was running into Catholic churches and priests when going thru some the villages in III Corps and I Corps.
TPS sensor or maf. I seafoamed my entire car seemed to do the trick
Had this problem on a 1.4 se 1996. Seemed to be cured by the fuel idler valve being cleaned out. Had this problem on a 1.4 se 1996. Seemed to be cured by the fuel idler valve being cleaned out. Had this problem on a 1.4 se 1996. Seemed to be cured by the fuel idler valve being cleaned out.
if the engine stopped running but electronics still work, you could have run out of gas or fuel pump died; if the entire car cut off and it seemed like electronics were blinking or acting up, then the alternator could be the problem